Bakeries in Reus, Tarragona, are busy preparing the distinctive Sant Jordi bread, a special loaf adorned with the colours of the Catalan flag, in anticipation of Sant Jordi Day.
This unique bread, which has quickly become an essential part of Catalonia's annual celebration, was conceived in the late 1980s. It was an initiative by the Barcelona Bakers' Guild (Gremi de Forners de Barcelona) to create a signature product for the occasion, according to the Diari de Tarragona.
The recipe was developed by baker Eduard Crespo, then a teacher at the guild's school, with the aim of establishing it as a shared symbol across the entire baking sector. In Reus, the Cal Sistaré bakery is among those crafting the bread, making it available to customers from the Saturday preceding Sant Jordi Day.
Xavier Pàmies, one of the two bakers at Cal Sistaré, explained that they only produce the bread during the week before, during, and after Sant Jordi. His brother, Tomàs Pàmies, is the specialist responsible for its preparation.
Despite his expertise, Tomàs Pàmies noted that because they only prepare the bread for two weeks a year, "it takes a bit of time to get the knack of it the first time you make it again." The process begins with three distinct doughs.
Crafting the Catalan Flag in Bread
One dough is made with cheese, specifically Emmental, following the original recipe. Another is a sobrassada dough, using Catalan sobrassada from Organyà, which provides the characteristic red hue thanks to paprika. The third dough, made with locally sourced walnuts, will encase the entire structure.
The challenge lies not only in the ingredients but also in the unique properties of each dough. "Their composition means they ferment differently," the bakers explained. The key difficulty is ensuring all three reach their optimal point simultaneously.
Once the doughs are ready, the assembly begins. The cheese dough forms the base, followed by the sobrassada dough. These are carefully shaped into elongated strips and layered one on top of the other to create the five 'yellow' and four 'red' stripes, mimicking the Catalan flag, known as the Senyera.
With the flag pattern complete, the walnut dough comes into play. It is stretched and wrapped around the entire structure, acting as a protective outer layer. During baking, this layer develops a greyer or brownish colour, further enhancing the visual distinction of the stripes.
Tomàs then slices the long 'arm' of dough into individual loaves. These require one more day of fermentation before they are finally baked, ready for sale to celebrate Sant Jordi Day.
The intricate preparation of Sant Jordi bread continues to be a cherished tradition, offering a delicious and symbolic way for residents across Catalonia to celebrate their patron saint and culture.
