Vermuteria del Tano, a beloved vermut bar in Barcelona's Gràcia district, will remain open after its owners of over 40 years, Tano Gabernet and Maricel Vidal, retired on 1 April. The couple found new owners to take over the establishment, ensuring its continuation with the same spirit and offerings, according to Gabernet.
Gabernet, who gave the bar its name in 1991, explained that he and his wife decided to retire around Christmas due to exhaustion from years of working weekends and without days off. He told reporters, "We said: 'This cannot be, we will retire and we won't be able to enjoy it.'"
The couple wanted to avoid the fate of many other bars that become "dehumanised" after being transferred. Their son, who had previously helped at the bar, chose to study economics instead of taking over, leaving them to seek external successors.
New Ownership Maintains Tradition
Fortune smiled on the Gabernets when a neighbour, Miguel Jiménez, heard about the transfer and informed his sister, Marta, who was working in hospitality in Switzerland. Marta had always found the bar interesting, often visiting when she was in Barcelona to see her brother. The siblings partnered to acquire the business.
Marta has been serving customers for several weeks, offering the same selection of vermuts, stuffed olives, calamari, crisps, and other cold tapas listed on the bar's two blackboards. Tano Gabernet noted that the bar never served lunch or dinner, focusing instead on the vermut experience. He added that few Catalan restaurants remain in Gràcia, with many now offering Asian cuisine.
The Gabernets are pleased that the new owners are committed to preserving the Vermuteria del Tano's character. Marta stated, "I don't want to change anything that is visible. If anything, I will make changes that are not visible to ensure the business does well."
Regular customers have expressed surprise at seeing Marta behind the counter but are happy that the bar's essence remains. The original staff, Josep and Àngels, also continue to work there. The bar's interior, filled with unique historical items, also remains unchanged.
A Bar Steeped in History
Gabernet shared some of the bar's history, including its past as a "perico sanctuary" for RCD Espanyol fans under a previous owner, Joan Esteve. The bar's counter was once blue and white, reflecting the team's colours. Another distinctive feature is a large collection of clocks, including alarm clocks and pocket watches, displayed on a shelf around the walls. These were originally left by a customer and later gifted to the bar, replacing old liquor bottles.
The bar also features a display cabinet filled with mementoes brought by customers from around the world. Gabernet mentioned that he had recently started asking for smaller items as space was running out. Above the two entrance doors, a vintage Singer sewing machine and a typewriter, donated by a customer who was a football referee in the post-war era, are displayed. Gabernet retrieved these items when Marta decided to remove the television.
Over nearly half a century, Tano and Maricel met many people. Gabernet enjoyed chatting with customers, learning about their lives. He noted that while only a couple of the oldest clients remain, the experience was enriching. He recalled a group of taxi drivers who would spend their days playing cards and eating sandwiches for breakfast. The bar sees different crowds depending on the day and time, with younger people during the week and older, long-time customers on weekends.
Gabernet created much of the bar's decoration himself, including paintings by Palamós artist Carles Sunyer and a cartoonist from El Jueves, alongside his own artwork. The bar, which opened in 1927 as a cellar selling bulk wine and spirits, is now set to reach its centenary in 2027.
From Cellar to Vermut Hotspot
Tano Gabernet was born in Montgai, Noguera, in 1961 and moved to Barcelona with his family at age ten. After military service and a period in Andorra, he ran a grocery shop in L'Hospitalet. He met Joan Esteve, who was looking to retire from his Gràcia bar. Gabernet visited the bar on a Sunday and agreed to take over the next day. After two years of learning the ropes, he took full ownership.
When Gabernet first saw the bar, it was frequented by retired people playing dominoes and cards. He focused on maintaining this neighbourhood atmosphere while popularising vermut, which was experiencing a resurgence. The bar has always served Perucchi vermut, now supplied by Miró de Reus after an acquisition. Gabernet and Vidal continued Esteve's tradition of offering preserves, small boats, and various gildas. He explained that they increased their direct orders from suppliers to meet rising demand for items like cockles, ensuring quality at a fair price. Gabernet credits word-of-mouth and social media for the bar's promotion, saying, "Without us doing anything, it was word-of-mouth."
Moving forward, Marta and Miguel Jiménez aim to preserve the authentic character of Vermuteria del Tano, ensuring it remains a cherished spot for vermut lovers in Gràcia for years to come. The focus will be on subtle, operational improvements rather than visible changes to its beloved aesthetic.
