Vermuteria del Tano, a cherished vermut bar in Barcelona's Gràcia district, will remain open after its long-time owners, Tano Gabernet and Maricel Vidal, found new management to take over. The couple, who ran the establishment for over 40 years, officially retired on 1 April, satisfied that the bar's unique spirit would be preserved.
Gabernet, who gave the vermut bar its name in 1991, explained that he and his wife decided to retire over Christmas. "We were very tired," he said. "We've worked all these years, weekends, and in the past, we didn't have any days off. We said: 'This can't be, we'll retire and won't be able to enjoy it.'"
While ready to step down, Tano did not want the bar to become "dehumanised" like many others after a change of ownership. Their son, who had previously helped out, chose to study economics instead of taking over the family business. Fortune smiled on them when a neighbour, Miguel Jiménez, heard about the transfer and told his sister, Marta, who was working in hospitality in Switzerland. Marta, who had always found the vermut bar interesting, partnered with her brother to acquire the business.
Preserving a Gràcia Institution
Marta has now been serving vermuts, stuffed olives, calamari, crisps, and other cold tapas for several weeks. She is committed to maintaining the bar's established character. "I don't want to change anything visible," Marta stated. "If anything, I'll make changes that aren't seen to ensure the business does well."
Many customers entering the bar in recent days have expressed surprise to see Marta, but are pleased that the essence of the place remains. The familiar rhythm of vermuts and tapas continues with the same intensity, spirit, appearance, and decoration. Josep and Àngels, who previously worked there, also continue at the vermut bar, alongside every item hanging on the walls, each with its own story.
Tano recalled that the previous owner, Joan Esteve, was a fan of RCD Espanyol. "This used to be a kind of 'perico' sanctuary," he said, referring to the club's nickname. "Even the bar counter used to be blue and white."
A Collection of Memories
The vermut bar also houses a large collection of clocks displayed on a shelf around the walls. "A client asked us to keep them for him and eventually gave them to us," Tano explained. "I replaced old liquor bottles with these clocks, alarm clocks, and pocket watches." Another distinct area is the display cabinet, filled with mementoes brought by customers from all over. "We are the custodians of these memories, which people still give us," Tano added. "Lately, I've been telling everyone that if they bring us things, they should be small, because we no longer knew where to put them."
Above the two entrance doors, two relics from daily life many years ago are visible: a Singer sewing machine next to a typewriter. Tano had kept them for a long time. "Since Marta said she preferred to remove the television that was there, I went to get them," he said. The typewriter, Tano noted, was given to them by a client, Tonet, who had been a football referee during the post-war period.
Over nearly half a century at the bar, Tano and his wife met many people. "I really enjoyed chatting, for example, with Tonet, who told me he had been to the war and had been a commander's driver," Tano recounted. Now, only a couple of the oldest clients remain. "I've learned everything there, and a lot of psychology," he added. "We've met wonderful people, and that has been very enriching. We had a group of taxi drivers who spent the day playing cards and eating sandwiches for breakfast." Tano explained that each day and time slot has its regular clientele. "During the week, young people come, and the older clients appear on Saturday and Sunday, those who have known us all their lives."
"I created this, and I've given them all the decoration, because everything here has a story," Tano said. "There are paintings by the artist Carles Sunyer from Palamós, also by a cartoonist from El Jueves. And there are also some things I've done myself, because I also like to paint."
From Cellar to Vermut Sanctuary
This small, authentic bar, a reference point for vermut and tapas lovers, can now continue its journey towards its centenary in 2027, as it opened in 1927 as a cellar selling bulk wine and spirits. Tano Gabernet was born in Montgai, in the Noguera region, in 1961, and moved to Barcelona with his family at the age of ten. After military service and working in Andorra, he returned to the Barcelona area and took over a grocery store in L'Hospitalet.
One evening, at a dinner, he met Joan Esteve, who told him he had a bar in Gràcia and was looking for someone to run it as he was retiring. "I remember coming to see the bar on a Sunday, and the next day I told him: 'You've found your replacement,'" Tano recalled. After two years of learning, he took over the bar until his retirement on 1 April.
Tano remembered that when he first saw the bar, most of the clients were elderly retirees who played dominoes and cards. "It was a real neighbourhood bar, and I dedicated myself to maintaining its atmosphere, but, at the same time, to making vermut fashionable," he said. "It was the time of the boom, a resurgence of the custom of going out for vermut." The bar always served Perucchi vermut until it was acquired by the Miró de Reus company, which is what they serve now.
"We followed the same line as Mr. Esteve: preserves, small boats, all kinds of gildas," Tano explained. "We have always tried to maintain this line. At first, I remember we might open ten cans of cockles on the weekend, and now, on the other hand, sales have gone up a lot, and we managed to work directly with suppliers, because with larger orders we could get a better price." He believes the secret is to offer quality at a fair price and acknowledged that customers themselves promoted the bar on social media. "Without us doing anything, it was word-of-mouth," he said.
