The Nicolazzi family has shaped the hospitality and culinary scene in Empordà since the mid-19th century. Their legacy began in 1853 when Pietro Nicolazzi opened Hotel Peninsular, Girona province's oldest hotel. His son, Pier, expanded this in 1930 with Restaurant Savoy, a popular spot for the local bourgeoisie.
The third generation continued this tradition. In 1960, Assumpció Nicolazzi established Hotel Alga in Calella de Palafrugell. Fifteen years later, she added El Càntir restaurant, which developed its own distinct character. "This family has been key to putting Girona on the world's gastronomic map," said Pere Malagelada, who has managed El Càntir's kitchen and dining room for eleven years.
A Hidden Gem with Unbeatable Views
El Càntir is located on the lower level of Hotel Alga, next to the swimming pool and surrounded by gardens. This setting offers a peaceful escape. "The views are unbeatable, they transmit an incredible sense of peace," Malagelada commented. The tranquil atmosphere means even the sound of cutlery seems refined.
Choosing from El Càntir's menu is a considered decision, given its rich history. The Mariner menu, a popular choice, starts with grilled mussels flavoured with pepper and virgin oil, alongside grilled razor clams with green apple and Iberian ham. This is followed by sautéed squid with tender garlic and green asparagus, and sautéed prawns with pepper and salt, creating an honest, direct, and Mediterranean selection of appetisers.
For the main course, diners can choose from classics prepared with respect and skill. These include a clean and flavourful 'arròs del senyoret' (gentleman's rice) with prawns, cuttlefish, and mussels, or a coastal fish 'suquet' (stew) that captures the essence of the sea in every spoonful. Desserts maintain a fresh tone, with options like white chocolate ganache with mango and cocoa sorbet, or seasonal fruit salad with mint and tangerine sorbet.
Assumpció Nicolazzi's Enduring Legacy
The meal is often accompanied by Calònia n.7, a white wine from the Empordà Designation of Origin. After coffee and petit fours, guests linger in the garden, enjoying the views of the horizon and the pool. Malagelada notes that many customers are international visitors, some of whom may not be aware of the deep history behind the restaurant.
Assumpció Nicolazzi, a collector of 'càntirs' (traditional Catalan pitchers), gave the restaurant its name and spirit. She was also a driving force behind 'Temps de Flors' (Flower Time) in Girona, showing her influence extended beyond the hotel walls. El Càntir is more than just a place for good food; it is a space where history is not just told, but felt.
