Bar Calders, located at Parlament 25 in Barcelona's Sant Antoni neighbourhood, is celebrating 15 years as a local meeting point. Co-owner Marc Lamarca opened the bar in March 2011, choosing a sunny corner of Pere Calders passage and Parlament street to create a relaxed space for drinks and snacks.
Vermouth is a key speciality at Calders, with selections from small cooperatives in Camp de Tarragona. Lamarca noted they recently added a smoked vermouth and a unique white variety. The bar's culinary offerings complement its drinks, featuring classic tapas like Russian salad. They also serve their own version, called 'Soviet', a playful nod to both its Russian origin and the bar's location on Parlament street.
Literary Homage and Exiled Dishes
The menu includes a section dedicated to Pere Calders, the Catalan short story writer known for his vivid imagination, who went into exile in Mexico after the Spanish Civil War. These 'exile dishes' include 'Republican Quesadillas' and 'President's Nachos', referencing Lázaro Cárdenas, the Mexican president who welcomed war exiles, including Calders.
Lamarca explained that the passage and corner location are central to the bar's identity. "It feels enclosed, yet people are exposed," he said, adding, "Catalans like to go to bars with their own people, but also to be seen." He quoted a friend of his father's, saying, "The best decoration is the people." This philosophy has kept the bar popular, even as virtual connections become more common.
Evolving Neighbourhood and Clientele
Over 15 years, Lamarca has observed changes in both his clientele and the Sant Antoni area. Many of the bar's first regulars, parents from the Ferran Sunyer public school across the street, now see their adult children frequenting Calders. When the bar first opened, the 'superilla' urban plan did not exist, and 'hipsters' were just starting to discover the street, which then saw new establishments like Federal Café and Tarannà. However, some of these businesses, and even some Calders customers, have not been able to remain in the area.
Sant Antoni was an emerging neighbourhood, not yet fully gentrified. Lamarca admitted that many long-time customers have had to leave the area due to rising rents, acknowledging that "the dynamics of the city are what they are." Despite these changes, Bar Calders continues to be a central part of the community.
