L'Aliança d'Anglès, a restaurant with a century-long history in Anglès, Girona, has regained its Michelin star, marking a new chapter for the family-run establishment. Cristina Feliu and her partner, chef Àlex Carrera, represent the third generation to lead the restaurant, which has evolved through various incarnations since its founding.
The restaurant's journey began in 1919 as the headquarters for the Aliança Agrícola d'Anglès, an agricultural cooperative and mutual society. It featured a café that became a central meeting point for farmers and livestock breeders in the Anglès area, according to historical accounts. The town itself underwent significant changes with industrialisation in the late 19th century, particularly after the opening of a cotton spinning mill in 1887 by Francesc Burés and Antoni Salvadó, which led to population growth and increased community associations.
From Social Hub to Gastronomic Destination
In the early 1950s, Lluís Feliu and Adela Martí took over the bar, transforming it into a popular social club and casino. It hosted card games, dominoes, and even billiards competitions, becoming a lively spot for locals. By the 1970s, a renovation by decorator Pere Llosas gave the venue a more bohemian pub atmosphere, attracting younger crowds before they headed to the nearby Gatzara discotheque.
The second generation, Lluís and Josep Maria Feliu Martí, started offering gourmet products like smoked salmon, French cheeses, and patés from a small section of the bar in the 1980s. Recognising changing dining habits, they opened a small dining room in 1995, with Lluís cooking and Josep Maria managing the front of house. The bar closed permanently in 2000, allowing them to focus entirely on the restaurant, which earned a Michelin star in 2009.
A New Generation Takes the Helm
The restaurant faced a significant challenge with the unexpected death of chef Lluís Feliu in 2013. The establishment closed temporarily, but Lluís's daughter, Cristina Feliu, who had joined the family business in 2009, decided to reopen it with her sister Martina and their uncle. They relaunched L'Aliança as a bistrot, blending the original bar's spirit with some of Lluís Feliu's most popular dishes, such as the 'arròs d'espardenyes' (sea cucumber rice). This new approach was recognised by the Michelin Guide with a Bib Gourmand award, highlighting its quality and reasonable prices.
Cristina Feliu later pursued further professional training, including a sommelier course at the Escola d'Hostaleria de Girona, and gained experience at El Celler de Can Roca. It was there that she met Àlex Carrera, an economist by training with a passion for cooking. Carrera had trained at ESHOP in Barcelona and worked with acclaimed chefs like Fermí Puig, Jean-Louis Neichel, and Andoni Luis Aduriz at Mugaritz. He joined L'Aliança in 2019.
Reclaiming Michelin Recognition
In 2020, during the pandemic, L'Aliança d'Anglès unexpectedly regained its Michelin star. Joan Roca of El Celler de Can Roca sent a congratulatory message during the Michelin Guide gala, surprising Cristina and Àlex. This marked the start of a new, successful chapter for the restaurant, with many believing further accolades are possible in the future.
Chef Carrera has developed his own culinary identity, focusing on local produce and paying homage to the restaurant's history and regional cuisine. He offers two tasting menus, 'Descoberta' (Discovery) and 'Emoció' (Emotion). The meal begins with an extensive 'hora del vermut' (vermouth hour) spread, featuring dishes like octopus salpicón, pickled mussel cake, and a chicken 'cresta'.
Highlights from the menu include the refined cuttlefish 'empedrat' with a veil and tartare of cuttlefish, cold tomato and pepper broth, and Santa Pau beans. Other notable dishes are Blanes red prawns with peas, a precise tuna tartare, and a house classic, the breaded Figueres onion with consommé and Miner d'Espinelves cheese. Main courses feature wild sea bass with saffron sauce, pork tail with sea cucumbers, and a reinterpretation of beef with mushrooms. Desserts include Girona apple in seven forms, a classic flan, and a version of bread with chocolate. The restaurant also boasts a cheese trolley featuring local cheeses and a wine cellar rich in local references.
L'Aliança d'Anglès, while a short drive from Girona, is a destination in itself. Its captivating cuisine and rich family history continue to draw visitors, showcasing a family's dedication to its roots in the town and region.
